What’s it got on its pocketses?

Since finishing up my friend’s cape, I’ve managed to make a little progress on my coat, at least as far as construction of major sections has gone. It’s taking a little longer, for a couple of reasons:
a) This tweedy fabric frays if you just look at it–I’m really not exaggerating by much! So I’m having to go back and serge every raw edge once the seams are sewn.
b) The first page of the directions somehow didn’t make it back into the envelope after the last time I made this coat! So I’m having to really think through this and make sure I’m doing it right. I even pulled out my old Reader’s Digest Guide to Sewing as a reference just to make sure. Yay for sewing books!
c) I’m actually glad I did that, because it inspired me to add a detail to the pocket construction that I think will make this coat better. Also, I had to cut the pocket lining in the first place.
d) I also discovered that I sewed one of the pockets on in the wrong place, and had to rip it off and re-sew it to the right place. Which means I’ve just now finished the first two front seams, minus topstitching. Yikes.

So that pocket detail… I added a facing to the lining fabric portion. (One side is cut from the actual coat fabric.) I was originally planning on lining the coat in this lime green silk crepe that I bought for the wedding and then couldn’t use. But I had this royal TARDIS blue Bemberg lining that I bought to attempt to line the Darling Ranges dress that I was originally thinking of making this fall. (At this point in October, I’m thinking my best bet is to drop that part of my FESA plan and save it for going into next fall. Again.) A little Twitter conversation confirmed my thought that fully lining the dress might be more complicated than helpful, particularly for the bulk of the gathered skirt. So I commandeered that particular piece of fabric for the coat lining instead, because I think it will slide over sweaters and the like so much more nicely. (Now I still have to come up with something to do with 3 yards of lime green silk. Help?)
I was worried about how the lining would hold up against the strain of pulling my gloves in and out of my pockets, especially with the thicker tweedy fabric. So I basted a leftover scrap of my organza, cut on the selvedge, onto the seam line of the two pocket pieces…

…and then stitched on a piece of the coating. The edge facing the inside pocket is serged, of course, because of that fray factor.

A small detail, I know, but even though the front isn’t pressed yet, I think this is helping the pocket to lay much better. And it looks a lot more professional to not have that blue peeking out!

I don’t think I’m going to go all-out tailored with this coat, because it being halfway through October means I’m feeling pressured to get this done. Especially since it’s been oddly warm and the temperatures are set to plummet this weekend, which means I’ll be freezing my butt off at work next week for sure. So if I try any more super-tailored details on this one, I think it’ll be attempting the bound buttonhole thing. I just can’t see a regular stitched-and-cut buttonhole holding up for too long on this fabric. I guess I’ll have to figure out when in the process to do that, so wish me luck! I think I’m at least caught up to the point where I have directions again. So that’s something.

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2 thoughts on “What’s it got on its pocketses?

  1. i love the tardis lining! the coat i am working on (from a vintage 60s pattern) has the back of the pockets (as in the side that is against the body when worn) cut from outer fabric and the front of the pockets from the lining. my fabric is also fraying madley so i have ended up hand catchstitching down all the seams i have trimmed to avoid any more fraying!

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