Thurlow fitting

I have to say, this hasn’t been nearly as painful as I’d anticipated.
Thurlows, straight out of the patternThis is what I ended up with when sewing it together straight out of the pattern. (I cut a straight size 8, for the record.) And it actually wasn’t that bad! It felt a little bit tight in the lower crotch area. And it was definitely too tight in the butt, even though it was still gapping at the center back. But still…I’ve sewed worse. Which means that my hopes that the Thurlows would work well for my shape are fully justified. Hurrah for Sewaholic!

After adjusting

After about an hour of tweaking, this is where I’m currently at. The butt may still be a little too tight, especially when factoring in welt pockets, but it’s passable. And I can sit in it, which is important. I know the front still looks pretty wrinkly, but I don’t think I’m going to mess with it too much. I learned from the jeans-fitting process that I have to allow myself a little extra room at the top of the thighs, because I have what Tasia calls “strong thighs”. (As illustrated by this initial jeans post here where you can see how far they protrude past my stomach and pelvic bones!) Besides, a lot of what is there is sagginess, and based on a few tugs I was doing when trying it on, I think that problem will be largely solved when the waistband goes on.

So here’s what I’ve done so far:

  • Let the inner thigh seams out 1/8″, for a total of 1/4″ per leg.
  • Took in the darts and side seams 1/8″, for a total waistline decrease of 1/2″.
  • Scooped out the back crotch seam to give me more room in the butt. I’m still not sure why taking fabric away from the outside of the pants gives more room, but it works. TARDIS effect, maybe? I also took that slanty back seam in quite a bit at the top. Probably a solid inch and a half.

I still need to play with the waistband, but that should be fairly simple. I was also thinking about taking it in a little more at the knee for more of a bootleg effect, but since these aren’t jeans and I’m not sure how forgiving this fabric is going to be, I’m going to leave it for these. It seemed like a good fit when my knees are bent, so I probably shouldn’t mess with that too much, either.

So, how’s it looking? And do I need to add a little more into the backside still?

One more thing– I recently discovered on my blog reader that this is happening again! So since my plans for sewing a lot of pants fit oh-so-nicely into the “Fashionable Foundations for Frosty Weather” category, I’m signing up for sure! I mean, two sewalongs in one? Three, even, since I am busting stash for all of these! How can I resist?

4 thoughts on “Thurlow fitting

  1. They are looking good so far! I can see an improvement between the photos. =)

    It might be helpful to make yourself a mockup at some point out of muslin or something light and draw grid-lines on it before you assemble the pieces. That way you can see where things are pulling out of balance. You might need to make a slight adjustment to the crotch to eliminate some of the pulling along the back of your thighs, but it's hard to tell if it's just the way you are standing in the photos.

    You are definitely on your way to some great fitting pants!

    ~ Brooke


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