I’m starting this on an unrelated note. I guess you can say I’ve been a little distracted with this whole wedding planning thing…it seems that both my blogoversary (6 years? Whaaaat?) and post #700 have passed me by with no notice. Um, yay me?
Anyway. I (finally!) had some time to sew today–I really wanted to work on this some yesterday, but I was thwarted by a co-worker who didn’t bother to show up for her shift, and ended up losing the three hours I otherwise would have had due to a last-minute lesson cancellation. Grr. So I started with some fresh paper and the original Cambie pattern and went back to square one.
This is what I ended up with this time. There was a lot of cutting and taping involved–I added the side dart with the FBA, but it was too low, so I had to raise that higher, too. And that scribbled-out side of the vertical dart was my attempt to avoid what happened with the first bodice from over-wide darts.
And the result?
I think, this time, it actually worked! It’s still not perfect, obviously–I’m probably going to have to do some kind of swayback adjustment, the neckline gaps a bit, and I may have just a little too much room in the front near my waist. Plus there’s still that saggy back armhole thing going on. But, on the whole, this is most definitely a better place to work from than the previous two bodice fronts! I did already make one change from the pattern– the side ended up being too long to line up with the back side seam, so I increased the new side seam dart until it was the right length (I think about an extra 3/4″ from the original line I’d drawn). I’ll have to go back and thread-trace that at some point.
I’ve already made a few small tweaks, at least to one side of the pattern for comparison purposes. As you can see, the front sleeve isn’t gathered anymore–I swapped it out with the lining piece, because I figured it would be easier to alter a piece that’s supposed to be gathered anyway than it would be to figure out the right width on the flat piece. I’ve come to the conclusion that I don’t want the sleeve to hang off the edge of my shoulder, because I just don’t think it will look right in the lace. So I’ve marked the outer edge about 7/8″ further in and tapered it down from there. (I’ll have to straighten that one line out.) I also took a small wedge out from the inner edge of the sleeve to try and combat the slight gappiness of the neckline, about 1/4″ tapered down to the original stitching line.
Aside from that, I’m going to wait to make further adjustments until I have a better idea of what effect the skirt will have on it. I did manage to get the waistband basted onto the muslin today, but I still have to entirely trace out and thread-trace the skirt pieces before I can go any further with this.
Previous wedding dress posts::
Tracing out the pattern
FBA attempt, part 1
FBA attempt, part 2 (with diagonal tuck adjustment)
FBA attempt part 3 (Bodice 2.0)