Previously on “Fun with FBA’s”…
Our heroine, in her quest for the One Dress To Rule Them All, discovered that Really Big Darts are a nemesis that can only be overcome by breaking them into more (and smaller) darts. To this end, she went back to the drawing board….or tracing board, in this case…to see if she could come up with a more workable shape. Now, on with the show!
After carefully thread-tracing the darts by hand on the original muslin bodice, and trying to add some length to the front in order to make it line up with that center front part, I was left with this new muslin bodice. As you can see, the darts are much smaller than the original version, and the sides are a bit more angled. To be honest, I don’t know enough about patternmaking to have an answer as to why the bottom is still wider than the top, aside from the darts, because I thought the whole point of those diagonal tucks was to make it so it was more fitted at my waist and still had more room left for my chest. Oh well.
Undeterred by this, I went ahead and basted Bodice 2.0 to the original back muslin pieces. An unforeseen consequence of my changes, unfortunately, is that the front is now at least 2″ longer than the back, and much lower than the center front was in the original bodice . (This is why my usual fitting method is “try things on and pin the heck out of it while I’m wearing it”…. obviously, I do not understand flat patternmaking AT ALL.)
The front. On the plus side, the darts worked much better, and it looks like my chest has plenty of room. Also, the caps ended up a bit more gathered and narrow at the front, and from this angle, it looks better than before. Also, it doesn’t look like the neckline is gapping quite as much, though it’s hard to tell because I was crunched for time and therefore didn’t actually press that curved edge under.
On the not-so-good side, diagonal drag lines under the bust. Also, I oddly have quite a bit of room left at the center front–it’s like the reverse of the gapiosis problem that’s usually reserved for me and pants waistbands.
Now, the back is where things get even stranger….
Holy swayback adjustment, Batman!! Turns out my reverse front gapiosis is due to it somehow ending up too small in the back. At least, at my lower back. Based on what that neckline is doing, it’s actually too big up top! This is also after my fitting assistant (aka my mom) pinned the back out an extra quarter-inch to try and alleviate the tightness, and after I’d loosened the original back dart adjustment by 1/4″ each as well. Also, it seriously looks like I need darts by the armpits. (Though, to be fair, that was a problem the first time, too.)
So I think it’s safe to say that this particular pattern adjustment is NOT going to work. Back to the tracing board…again.
Next time on “Fun with FBA’s, in which our heroine attempts adding a side seam dart to the original bodice pattern. Will she find success? Will her nemesis, Gapiosis, come to annoy her again? Will she ever solve the Mystery of the Saggy Back Armpits? Stay tuned!
Previous wedding dress posts::
Tracing out the pattern
FBA attempt, part 1
FBA attempt, part 2 (with diagonal tuck adjustment)