After some fiddling around tonight, including trying the double dart (which just wouldn’t lay right, there was just too much fabric), I discovered a solution that just might work. I took a smaller dart in each side of the front, and then took a slightly diagonal tuck all the way up. That seemed to solve the excess fabric problem pretty nicely, and the front looks pretty good now! (See lower left). You know, aside from the completely wonky lower edge. (See upper left.) The center front looks like it’s a pretty good placement for the waistband, so I’ll have to go with that. I think the best bet will be to cut an entirely new front piece with these changes, because I need to make sure it’s ok with the grainline changes that those tucks will make at the side. If that doesn’t work, I’m going to attempt the princess seam adjustment.
Aside from evening up the lower edge, I do need to play with the sleeves a bit. (See front sleeve picture.) On the left side of the picture, I folded the outer edge in to make it more narrow, and on the right side, it’s as sewn. I’m thinking the left side will probably work better with the lace. The other issue with the front is that the neckline is gapping slightly on the curved edges, and I’m not really sure what to do about that.
I also took a bigger dart on each side in the back, about 7/8″. I think I need to slightly loosen that up again, because once I get all the layers and especially the boning in there, I think it might be a bit uncomfortably tight if I don’t. I’m a flute player, so I’m a big fan of breathing, you know? Looking at this picture now, I can also see some diagonal pulling towards the center seam, but I guess I’ll let those darts back out a bit first and see what that does.
The other thing I need to figure out is the back armhole, because it’s gapping pretty badly. But I think that’s an adjustment that may need to wait for after I get the waistband and a skirt on this thing, because I know that’s going to weigh things down a bit more.
All in all, I think this is pretty good progress for the evening!