First of all, the disclaimer: there’s going to be a lot of pieces missing as I post about this project. I can’t post pictures of the sketch or the finished product for copyright reasons. But I do have permission to post pictures of the process from BurdaStyle, so here we go!
I wanted to make a muslin of the coat before I started, both to test my changes and to try out the basic construction before I cut into the yummy faux suede that they sent me to work with. (Pictures of that to come.) So I got the body of it basted together last night (ignore the unfinished dress that Donna’s wearing underneath….hopefully I’ll find time to actually hem that thing before July is over! And, um, ignore the fact that the pleats are facing in the same direction on both sides of the front…they’re meant to pleat towards the hips on both sides. I’ll fix that on the real thing.)
I’m glad that I did try it out first–while the fit of the main body is just about perfect for me with no alterations to the pattern sizing, I did make some changes to the pattern pieces in the back. And after seeing this, the main back pieces below the yoke are now altered so that they’re not so wing-like.
Another change to the original pattern that I made was to add more fullness to the sleeve cap. I got some instructions on how to actually do that from this book, and it’s working out pretty well, actually. My original thought was to gather them, like it does on the original pattern, and then just have a puffier sleeve. But I recently used up a Barnes & Noble gift card on this book (partially because of this project, but I figured it would be a good overall reference to have in my tiny little sewing library), and one of the things it specifically said is that faux suede generally doesn’t ease well. So I made a modification to my original idea and decided to carry the pleats into the sleeve cap instead.
This is the result, and I really love the look of it so far! The suedecloth is fairly heavy and drapey, so I’m hoping it translates into the finished design ok. I’ve got some ideas on how to add some support to those sleeve caps, though.
My plan is to get as much of this done as possible in the next week and a half. I have the band camp that I work at every summer starting on the 19th, which means I’m also going to have some rearranged lessons to deal with. (Along with a lot less energy and mental clarity to draw from in the evenings, I’m sure… I enjoy the camp, but by the end of the week, I generally feel very much like a zombie in need of braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaains.) So I’m going to be leaving to teach my one away-from-home lesson of the evening soon (more rearranged schedules…ah, summer), and am planning on stopping at Joann’s on the way home to pick up some much-needed lining, as well as see if I can hunt down something that will help me position some details without pins. Then I can get all of the fabric washed tonight, cut it out either tomorrow or Thursday (pending a get-together with my best friend from high school, which we’re still discussing details on), and get some actual sewing in starting on Friday!