So I finally have a pattern that I think I can work with in making that dress for my brother’s wedding! It’s just a very basic McCall’s sheath dress, and I’ve spent the last couple of hours basting it together and tweaking it. There are some definite changes that have to be made– namely the neckline, which I’m going to have to reshape due to needing to take a bigger shoulder seam in order to get the armholes to stop gapping and get the bust darts, which I’d lowered some, to go back into the right place. (I decided to experiment with this to try and get it to fit, and it also told how to measure to get the point of the darts pointed at the fullest part of the bust, but I think I may have gotten it a little off.) But there are also some fitting adjustments that will need to be made, and for this I’m asking for the help of you lovely readers.
#1: The zipper in the back is gapping at the neck. I’ve already partially unbasted it and rebasted it to curve it in more– currently at 1″ in rather than 5/8″. Is this something I should be worried about, or will reshaping the neckline throw it off further, or will putting the facings in (and therefore removing some of that raw edge) solve the problem?
#2: The bust darts. I’ve never quite been able to get this double-dart bodice thing down–it seems like I always get that weird fabric bubble between the two. This is no exception. I tried tapering the side dart to get less of a point, but I’m not sure if that made it better or worse. I did also have to take the vertical darts in a bit more because it was hanging way too loosely around my waist. Which I tapered it out from the seam, further down than the point. You can see that I’m also getting some weird wrinkles in the front from the picture, too, though I think it may hang a bit better on me than on the dummy.
#3: The back. This is where I’m getting the weirdest wrinkles. Again, I had to take the darts in some more, but I actually ended up letting those out further again than what I’d originally taken in, and then taking in a little bit on the side seams. That helped a bit, but I still don’t think it should have all of those wrinkles in there.